Only one more to go; the box top, and i'm so relieved! 

To start the process of this box top I traced around the toile that I created on the stand as both the toile and top I was beginning to create were the same shape. I then drew around the top half of the already created toile and cut in to sections adding 1CM SA to each pattern piece.

Once the toile had been completed and I was happy with the fit I cut out in my final fabric.

I found it difficult to sew the PU leather and PVC together as they both stuck to each other and the machine bed. I overcome this problem by seeking advice from the technician, who suggest I used a silicone spray on the machine bed. This helped dramatically and was able to manufacture neatly.

I plan to finish my garment with bias binding once the garment has been fitted during fittings week.

FINALLY COMPLETE! 

My collection is complete!  

OKAY! so, this is my 4th out of 5 garments to be patterned toiled and manufactured, no pressure then... 

To start this garment I used the stand. I work better with visuals and this method I was able to see my garment taking shape. Using the stand I placed a large piece of scrap fabric and started to draw design lines. I repeated this process for the back. I then placed the toile on to pattern paper and traced off for the flat pattern version. I then correctly sewed the toile together which gave me my final shape.

Once I was happy I cut out in my final fabrics and manufactured. I overlocked all the edges required and ironed the centre seam downwards so there was no bulk around the waist.

Once I was happy with my garment I inserted the zip correctly.

I had no CB seam so I cut to the required legnth making 2 snips at the end and folding under creating a square edge. 

I then top stitched the zip down CB using 1CM SA. The outcome was much smoother as the fabric did not stretch and was able to insert correctly, in comparison to the orange block shoulder dress.  

I plan to finish this garment by binding the neck and top stitching the sleeves after fittings week. 

4 DOWN 1 TO GO! EXCITING! 

Feeling slightly calmer having already patterned, toiled and manufactured, 2/5 garments, only 3 to go!

The next garment i worked on was the Clear Panel Dress. 

For this pattern, toile and manufacture, I used a previous pattern I had already created for the orange shoulder dress Explained in a previous post. I traced the block dress and split into sections adding 1CM SA.

For the sleeve panel, I traced round an existing pattern piece extending the width by 15CM. I manufactured the toile with no difficult areas.

I cut out in my final fabric and manufactured together overlocking where required. I top stitched all seams in the direction where they would not be shown through the PVC.

Finally I inserted the zip with no difficulties. The zip is showing through the clear panels and only required top stitching. 

3 DOWN 2 TO GO!

So after a long week off having an operation, its panic time! I still have 4/5 garments to pattern, toile and manufacture! I CAN DO IT!

I patterned the shoulder panel by tracing around the shoulder from a kimono block to get the shape I wanted, traced off and added a 1CM SA to all edges. I then sewed around the curved shoulder edge, making triangular snips for the perfect fit. I then top stitched around the edges for a neat finish. I then placed this piece on the stand and measured to create the neck fastening, tracing it off neatly from the stand.

I repeated the manufacture process in my final fabric.

For the block dress, I traced around a standard dress block, removing the darts for a loose fit. I then lengthened the pattern by 0.5m for a midi style dress. I toiled in calico.

I then started to manufacture my garment, over locking the edges as required. It was easy to assemble, yet the neoprene fabric made things a little more difficult as there was a lot of stretch in the fabric.

The zip I found most challenging on this garment. I thought the zip would be the exact same process as the previous box top. I could not finish the zip properly as I had to insert it into an open seam, leaving the closed end slightly hidden. When top stitching the zip into place I noticed the fabric was puckering and slipping out of place, even when pinned in numerous places. I found it easier if I tightly tacked into place and I found it to be more accurate. I learnt from this mistake and improved on my next garment.

So there we go, 2/5 garments complete only 3 to go! 

Having already patterned and toiled the trousers from my collection in a previous brief, i was already a step ahead with this garment! 

Not so stressful! 

I cut out in my final fabric; Orange denim. I was restricted as to how I could lay my pattern piece on the fabric because of grain line and fabric had to be wasted.

I then overlocked as required.

I manufactured the trousers and ironed open all seams.

I inserted a concealed zip in to the side of my garment. This is different to my toile as I realised the zip would lie flatter than if it was inserted in to the back. Giving them a better quality finish.

I will bind the waistband and hem after fittings week. 

1 DOWN 4 TO GO!

Final Concept

Throughout previous blog posts i showed my concept through primary research. I took the idea of the street from inspiring street art throughout the city of London. I looked further into the street and started to look at brick textures and building and used this inspiration throughout my collection using the lines block shapes and fabric textures.